The Length and Breadth of Khadi

Interview with Anindita Sardar, Creative Director, Taneira

How did the khadi collection unfold?

Khadi was already there in India but it was looked down upon as old fashioned fabric. But in recent years with the concept of Make in India, many government organisations, retailers and designers have rediscovered its versatility and innovated designs for home furnishings, sarees, menswear, western wear, etc.

Also this fabric holds an emotional value attached with Indians and has evolved as a medium of expression for the weavers.

We wanted to commemorate 150 years of Mahatma Gandhi. And our heart said to use khadi as a tool to unite the textiles of India from every nook and corner of the country.

What were the challenges and what was the value-add?

Uniqueness was both the challenge and the value-add. The concept of incorporating khadi as a fabric or yarn in 150 sarees from across India is unique itself. From handpainted kalamkari to madhubani, from patan patola to muslin jamdani, Banarasi Tanchoi to Kanjeevaram korvai, the range of weaving techniques that we have in India is amazing.

We have dealt with as many as 30 to 35 crafts with khadi which is a very special. Each of the khadi sarees are masterpieces where the intricate craftsmanship is featured.

Can you share some anecdotes from this journey?

What I observed during my khadi journey was that none of the weavers or printers from any part of India has said no to this project. Their enthusiasm and interest had surpassed our energy. Nowadays since most of the weavers are not into khadi weaving anymore, they faced many difficulties handling the soft yarns. But their never ending spirit and our own never-say-no spirit had hit the rock bottom many a time in this journey.

But finally everything fell into place and things happened miraculously with all our positive efforts and hard work.

What are the clusters which were involved in this project?

1. Bengal
2. Banaras
3. Bhagalpur
4. Lucknow
5. Kanchipuram
6. Pochampally
7. South/ Coimbatore
8. Patan
9. Ajrakhpur- Gujarat
10. Udaipur- Rajasthan
11. Bagru- Rajasthan
12. Paithan for Paithani saree
13. Sanganer- Rajasthan
14. Chanderi
15. Maheshwar
16. Bhuj- Gujarat
17. Jaipur for Leheriya-Rajasthan
18. Embroidery from Delhi
19. Jaipur for Gota patti work- Rajasthan
20. Maharashtra for Parsi gara work
21. Delhi for zardozi
22. Srikalahasti- kalamkari work
23. Uppada
24. Madhubani- for handpainted madhubani sarees
25. Gujarat- Ashavali sarees
26. Patan for patan patola saree
27. Murshidabad
28. Kerala

What were the additional crafts used?

Types of embroidery, crafts, and weaves we did in khadi are quite a few.

1. Jamdani in muslin khadi
2. Chikankari embroidery
3. Kantha embroidery
4. Parsi gara embroidery
5. Zardozi embroidery
6. Gotapatti
7. RAjasthani appliqué work
8. Leheriya
9. Bandhani
10. Double sided ajrakh
11. Farad prints from bagru
12. Handpainted kalamkari
13. Banaras tanchoi
14. Banaras butidar kadwa
15. Kanchipuram korvai sarees
16. Chanderi weaves
17. Maheshwari weaves
18. Bhagalpur tussars
19. Patan patola double ikats
20. Pochampally single ikat
21. Double ikat in teliya rumal
22. Sanganeri prints
23. Ashavali sarees
24. Shantipuri woven sarees